Change From RAID 0 to RAID 1

I am puchacing a new computer that is configured for raid 0. I would like to reconfigure it for raid 1. I prefer to reinstall win 7 to get rid of the junk new machines are shipped with so OS reinstallation is not a problem. Will I need new drivers or hardware (it is a Dell XPS system).

RAID0_RAID1

Change From RAID 0 to RAID 1

It should be fine. Just download all necessary drivers from dell. You may want to create media disks before doing this so that you can restore to factory settings if need be.you need not new hard drives, as we know the raid 0 is congifure with two hard drive, and raid 1 also need 2 hard drives, you just recongigure the raid array, and reinstall the windwos 7, that’s OK, you’d better do a fresh format before reconfigure.

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Use External Hard Drive as an Internal Hard Drive

Hi guys. Hard drive prices as you all know have been hiked up terribly. Here in South Africa, internal hard drives 1Tb was R600 = $75. The world shortage caused the hard drives to skyrocket in price from R600 to R1800. That’s a $150 price increase!

Now down to business. I have an external hard drive. Samsung Story. 1TB. I would just like to know what the possibility is, to take the hard drive out of it’s enclosure, connecting it via a SATA port and using it as the internal hard drive. (booting windows, installing games and programs)

You should easily be able to do this, however, I would be careful when removing the case. A lot of them are made not to come off, so be careful not to damage the drive when removing the case. It should be a standard hard drive inside. You might want to make sure it’s out of warranty before opening the case though. Also, I don’t think the enclosure’s controller is doing anything funny with the data, but if it is, you may need to reformat the drive once it’s in your computer.

Use Internal Hard Drive as an External Hard Drive

It is easy and inexpensive to convert an internal hard drive to an external one. All you need is a hard drive enclosure that fits your existing internal hard drive. Hard drive enclosures are widely available at computer stores and online. Prices range from as little as five dollars for a basic one-drive USB 2.0 enclosure to over a hundred dollars for enclosures that hold multiple internal drives in RAID arrays with eSATA interfaces. You probably don’t need to spend more than $20 for a basic one-drive enclosure.

Removing a hard drive from a laptop or desktop is easy. Power down and unplug the computer. On most laptops, you’ll remove a plastic panel from the underside of the laptop with one or two small screws. Remove the drive by gently tugging it free from the connectors, and you’re done. On a desktop, open the system case, and locate the hard drive in its metal bay. Disconnect the power and data cables, remove the screws holding the drive in the bay, and slide it out. Just remember, you’re removing the hard drive, but NOT opening it up. Doing so will damage the sensitive internal components.

You do need to make sure you buy the right kind of drive enclosure kit, so it will be compatible with the drive you’ve removed from the desktop or laptop.

The first consideration is the size of your hard drive. Laptop drives are all 2.5 inches, while desktop drives are usually 3.5 inches. Determine the size of your internal hard drive and shop for a hard drive enclosure into which it fits. Note that 3.5 inch drives generally require an external power supply, while 2.5 inch drives can pull their power from the computer to which they connect.

The drive interface is another critical factor. Old hard drives may use an IDE interface. Many new drives use the speedier SATA interface. Make sure the enclosure you select supports your internal hard drive’s interface. If you have any confusion about the size or interface for your drive, just Google the name. For example, I have an old hard drive that I pulled from a defunct desktop computer. The markings on the drive say “WD Caviar 36400” so a quick search for that phrase tells me it’s a 6.4GB Western Digital, 3.5 inch, IDE drive.

Use internal hard drive as an external drive

Connecting the External Hard Drive to Your Computer

The connector on a hard drive enclosure is the means by which it is connected to your computer. USB 2.0 is a common connector because most computers support it. Firewire is another option if your computer has an available Firewire port. An eSATA connector is faster than USB 2.0 or Firewire, but relatively few computers and enclosures support eSATA at this time.

The enclosure box may be made of aluminum, plastic, or some other material. A box sporting LED indicators helps you observe drive activity. Other bells and whistles are optional.

Installing an internal drive is into an enclosure is easy. You may need a screwdriver, but no special tools are required. Just avoid static electricity and don’t force any connectors. If you are enclosing an IDE drive, make sure to set its master/slave jumpers to the positions recommended in the enclosure’s instructions. SATA drives do not require jumper settings.

Connect the enclosure’s interface cable to the internal hard drive’s interface connector. Plug the enclosure’s power cable into the drive. Fasten the drive into the enclosure with the fasteners provided. Close up the enclosure.

If necessary, plug in the external drive’s power cord. If you don’t need external power, just plug the connector cable into the appropriate USB, Firewire, or eSATA port on your computer. Mac and Windows computers should recognize the new drive automatically. It should appear in your drives list with its own drive letter. Copy a few files to and from the new drive to make sure everything is working. Then enjoy your new external hard drive!

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Unable to Access System Disc When Hard Drive is Connected

First, I got a BSOD that initiated the problem. After I restarted my computer, I got a message that said Disk Boot Failure, Insert System Disk and Press Enter. I put in the system disc in the disc drive and pressed enter.

The keyboard was not working so I changed the BIOS so that the first priority was the disk drive and all the other priorities were disabled so I could run the system disk.

The same problem occurred(It said Disk Boot Failure, Insert System Disk and Press Enter) and then I removed the hard drive to test the computer. Once I removed the hard drive, the system disk ran like normal and took me to the Windows Vista Installation Menu. Once I reconnected the hard drive, the problem reoccurred.

The keyboard doesn’t properly respond in anywhere other than the motherboard starting screen and the BIOS. The keyboard didn’t even work when I went to the boot menu.

The System Disk request is appearing because your HDD has failed most likely. The reason why it will boot up to the installation menu is because when you unplug the HDD the BIOS detects the bootable DVD in your DVD Drive. When you plug the HDD in your BIOS is set to boot off that first and when it fails to do so the system halts. It then asks for a System Disk. What that means is the BIOS is seeking out a boot able disk. This could be a boot able DVD or CD or HDD or in some cases a USB stick. That is why the System Disk request is worded in a generic fashion.

Also, you may need to turn on legacy usb devices in the bios in order for your keyboard to register outside of windows.

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RAID 1 Disadvantages

I am in the process of building a new PC and since my data is important. I am considering using RAID. I currently have an external HD which is being backed up using Norton Ghost, but I would feel much more comfortable with real-time protection I’ve read that with on-board RAID controllers, the performance hit for RAID 5 is enormous, so I’m leaning towards RAID 1. I will be using WD 750 Gb Black hard discs on a GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P motherboard using Windows 7. Is the only disadvantage to RAID 1, the ‘loss’ of a hard disc and a slightly more complicated O/S install with the advantages of data protection and a potentially slightly better read performance?

RAID1_RAID5

The big advantage or RAID1 is “instant recovery” from HDD failure. That is, if a member of the array fails, the RAID system immediately should detect that situation and convert the operation to using only the remaining good drive so that you can keep on functioning normally right away. It should also immediately send out a warning message so that you know of the problem and can plan its repair as soon as possible. The “downside” of this is that it can work so smoothly that the warning message goes un-noticed or is ignored by untrained users and the tech guys are unaware a problem needs attention. That’s probably not your situation.

The RAID1 systems I have used have very good tools for fixing a drive failure. Basically they will pinpoint exactly which drive is faulty so you can replace it. Then they will allow you to control re-establishing the array by copying everything from the good drive to the replacement unit. There is no need to re-install an OS or restore data from a backup dataset. They even can do this while the system is in use, although my preference would be to do the re-establishment as a separate operation on a system that is NOT being used for anything at the time.

My wife runs a retail store with a POS software package on a dedicated computer. The data files for that operation are kept in one subdirectory and amount to about 60 to 70 MB of data that are updated with every sale. The files are generally in ASCII character strings with some numerical data, so they compress well to .zip files. I set up the machine with a pair of drives in RAID1 as the only drive system. I installed WnZip Pro and set up a scheduled task that runs every day at 10 minutes before midnight (store is closed). It zips all the files in the specific subdirectory into a daily .zip file named with a date string and puts them in a designated subdirectory. This guards against data file corruption by providing end-of-day archived versions. Once a month (probably should be more often) I simply copy the end-of-month .zip file to a USB drive and take it home where I put it on my home computer – thus an off-site backup monthly. Then I delete all the daily .zips at the store, except for that month-end one. (So the store computer has on its RAID1 array an end-of-month .zip file (for every month since its start), each containing a snapshot of all the data that changes over time.) Small important step: the POS computer normally runs 24/7, so when I do the monthly .zip file copy I also reboot the machine and watch the POST messages to be sure there are no errors in the RAID system that I have not heard about.

We had a failure, but not of a hard drive. The mobo failed and had to be replaced. That can be a big problem with any RAID array based on mobo built-in “controllers” because there is no real universal RAID standard. That means often a RAID array written in one system cannot be read by another. In choosing the original mobo (by Abit) I deliberately chose one that had an nVidia chipset because their website claimed that they guarantee that ALL of their mobo chipset RAID systems use the same RAID algorithms and would continue to do so, so that any yet-to-come nVidia chipset could handle any older RAID disks made with their chips. When the mobo failed I selected a Gigabyte replacement mobo with a similar (but not identical) nVidia mobo chipset. Swapped everything, plugged it all together, and booted expecting maybe I’d have to do a Repair Install at least. It just booted and ran perfectly first time – no trouble at all! WOOHOO! I never had to reconfigure or re-install anything, other than updating the mobo device drivers from the Gigabyte CD.

So if you plan for possible changes to the RAID controller system as well as for changes to a hard drive that fails, a RAID1 system can give you some data security and continued operation through disk failure. You just have to recognize the need for real data backups and do them (AND VERIFY, as you say), probably more often than I do it.

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Cannot Access Old Hard Drive Documents

I recently transferred my old hard rive to my new computer. The hard-drive picks up and I can access the the hard-drive until I click on documents< owner. It says access denied. I go to the security tab and all I see is “you do not have permission to view or edit this objects permission settings“. How can I access my old documents?

In the box that lets you choose what the new owner will be, there’s a checkbox labelled “Replace owner on subcontainers and objects“. Make sure that box is checked when you click the “OK” button to change the owner.

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HDD Prices

When do you think the prices of HDD’s will go back down from the floods?

Different analysts are making different predictions.

Hard Drive Prices to Remain Inflated Throughout 2012(Tomshareware.com)

In Q4 2011, HDD shipments dropped by 26 percent over the same period in the previous year. Shipments will by 13 percent in Q1 and 5 percent in Q2 on an annual basis, IHS believes. In Q3, the market will stabilize and grow by 2 percent and bounce back with 49 percent in the fourth quarter of this year. Sequentially, HDD shipments are predicted to climb 14 percent in Q1, 11 percent in Q3 and 4 percent in Q4.

“The recovery of global HDD manufacturing has begun and will continue during each quarter of 2012, however, the recovery will be prolonged for at least two more quarters, as supply constraints keep unit shipments from climbing on an annual basis until third quarter.” The shortage will translate to continued inflated prices throughout 2012, the firm said.

HDD makers and component suppliers have resumed only partial production in Thailand and have shifted some of their manufacturing to other countries to alleviate the impact of the supply shortage.  According to IHS, Western Digital has been the HDD manufacturer most impacted by the floods and is not expected to return to full production until September.

IHS said that the Thailand flood has caused the global average selling price (ASP) for HDDs to jump by 28 percent in Q4 2011. Prices are forecast to decline by 3 percent in Q1 and by 9 percent in Q2.

“Prices will remain high for a number of reasons, including the higher costs associated with the relocation of production, as well as higher component costs because of flooding impacts among component makers, furthermore, PC brands have signed annual contacts with HDD makers that have locked them into elevated pricing deals for the rest of the year.” noted Fang Zhang, storage analyst for IHS.

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How to Wipe A Harddrive?

wipe harddrive I want to totally wipe my harddrive completeley and erase everything to basically make it like when I got it new. I’m not getting rid of the harddrive, I just screwed some stuff up installing the components of my new hard drive and want to start over.

The goal is to press the power button and have the PC boot up like the first time ever (which was 4 days ago) and have absolutey nothing on it except the clean factory default BIOS on the mobo.

Already backed up all my data, what’s the best way to wipe my harddrive?

COLGeeK is right. You don’t need to completely wipe it. That’s needed if you are going to, say, give a PC that used to have sensitive data on it to someone else, to make sure that the data can’t be recovered. A simple deletion of partitions is enough to let you install as if it were never there.

I wipe my hard drives with a lint-free cloth sprayed with a 5% solution of white vinegar. Either that or use the Secure Erase command via Parted Magic.

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Seagate HDD Warranty Status

I want my hard disk warranty status: Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1000 Gbytes
S/N : 9VPE4W6V
ST31000524AS
P/N : 9YP154-021
FIRMWARE : HP63
DATE CODE : 12133

Go here and enter the requested data: Check Seagate Warranty Status

Seagate Drives Warranty & Replacements FAQs:

1. Can I get replacement for my defective hard drive?

Replacement for your defective hard drive is possible if:

a. The hard drive is still in warranty. Visit this site: (http://support.seagate.com/customer/warranty_validation.jsp)

b. The hard drive has not failed Seagate’s Visual Mechanical Inspection (VMI)  criteria or drive has shown evidence of being opened or tampered with.

2. How do I check my hard drive warranty status?

(http://support.seagate.com/customer/warranty_validation.jsp)

3. How do I get warranty support for my defective hard drive?

a. First check if your hard drive is still in warranty (http://support.seagate.com/customer/warranty_validation.jsp)
b. If you had purchased the hard drive from an authorized Seagate distributor/reseller, you will see the warranty period.
c. You may check list of authorized distributor. http://wheretobuy.seagate.com/
d. If you purchased your PC/laptop from an OEM, you may return the PC/laptop to the OEM for the hard drive replacement
e. If you are unable to verify your warranty or if you purchased your hard drives, please contact Seagate Support at http://www.seagate.com/support/contact-support.

4. Why must I send my defective hard drive to the place of my purchase?

a. It is more cost effective to send the hard drive to a local place than overseas.
b. You can expect faster and better service.
c. Shipping delays are minimized.

5. What do I do if the reseller or Seagate Authorized Distributor refuses to accept my hard drives?

If the reseller or Seagate Authorized Distributor refuses to accept your hard drive, please contact Seagate Support at http://www.seagate.com/support/contact-support.

6. Where can I find the location to return my defective hard drives?

First check if your hard drive is still in warranty (http://support.seagate.com/customer/warranty_validation.jsp)
Go to your place of purchase for warranty service
Or check the list of Authorized Distributors.http://wheretobuy.seagate.com/

7. Previously I could create an RMA number online, but now I can’t. Why?

A more streamlined process will help ensure customers receive efficient service.
Hard drive replacement will be more efficient without expensive shipping cost to you.

8. How does the present change in return process benefit me?

The turn-around time for hard drive replacement may be faster if your place of purchase has stock available on-hand.

You will not incur expensive overseas shipping cost.

9. What does Seagate warranty not cover?

The following “Limited Consumer Warranty Information” describes Seagate’s standard limited warranty. For complete warranty information, consumers should review the warranty materials included with their product. Warranty coverage may differ depending on jurisdiction.

What Do Our Warranties Usually Cover? Our limited warranties cover defects in material or workmanship in new Seagate or Maxtor products. Only consumers purchasing Seagate or Maxtor products from authorized Seagate retailers or resellers may obtain coverage under our limited warranties. Please see the limited consumer warranty that accompanied your product for the specific warranty terms that apply to your product.

How Long Does The Coverage Last? Our warranty periods are 1 year, 2 years, 3 years or 5 years from the documented date of purchase, depending on the type of product and where it was purchased.

What Does Our Warranty Not Cover? Our warranties do not cover any problem that is caused by (a) commercial use; accident; abuse; neglect; shock; electrostatic discharge; heat or humidity beyond product specifications; improper installation; operation; maintenance or modification; or (b) any misuse contrary to the instructions in the user manual; or (c) loss passwords; or (d) malfunctions caused by other equipment. Our limited warranties are void if a product is returned with removed, damaged or tampered labels or any alterations (including removal of any component or external cover). Our warranties do not cover data loss – back up the contents of your drive to a separate storage medium on a regular basis. Also, consequential damages; incidental damages; and costs related to data recovery, removal and installation are not recoverable under our warranties.

10. Why does Seagate constantly change its warranty/RMA processes?

Seagate is committed to providing best in class customer experience. From time to time Seagate modifies and enhances the processes or policies in order to provide best in class customer experience.

The current change is only an enhancement to streamline the return policy, offering benefits and services to the customers.

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HDD Makes Random Clicks When Windows is Booting

When I boot my computer up in the morning, my hard drive(Maxtor 500 GB) makes random clicks as it loads windows. I never seem to notice it making those sounds once windows is booted up or if I restart the computer after it has been running for a while. Only when it starts up cold. I have also noticed that occasionally the MSE icon won’t load into the tray, even though the program is running and is set to display in the tray. A restart fixes that issue.

Is there something wrong with my drive? Should I be looking into buying a new drive and having the old one copied over to it? Or is this nothing to really worry about? It has been doing this since at least June of 2011 with no changes.

At a minimum backup the data you do not want to lose. You might even want to clone your HDD to another HDD. It sounds like yours is dying.

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Primary/Secondary IDE Master

With a SATA DVD burner and 2 IDE drives, can I run primary/secondary masters? if so would it be more efficient than primary master/slave that I run now.

setup: SAmsung SATA burner, WD Cavier 120gb 7200rpm (OS) Seagate Barracuda 7200(storage) Abit NF-95 MB

I know that running a sata HD would be the best idea, but funds haven’t been made available for it yet.  And Yeah I know the NF-95 is anceint as well. I was just wondering if using both IDE ports would  speed up read write just a bit or not.

For the most part it won’t make a difference. The only time it would matter is if you are doing disk to disk copy. Reading a game file off a disk won’t have any differences same as saving a file. But IDE can only read/write to one drive at a time. So if you copy from one disk to another it will be faster if each drive was a master on a different channel.

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